GENERAL INFORMATION

Agra, The royal seat and capital of yesteryears, the city of Mughal might and splendour, is only 200 kilometres away from Delhi. Agra derives its name from Agra Vana (aelo grove) where Krishna used to sport with his female friends in his boyhood and early youth on the banks of Yamuna. Agra’s chequered history goes back to times of Mahabharata, but its modern history begins from 1505 when Sultan Sikander Lodi of Afghan Dynasty chose it as his capital city. Sikandrabad, the place where Akbar is buried takes its name after him.

It is during the Mughal era that Agra gained the greatest eminence. Babar defeated Sikander Lodi at Panipat in 1526, and founded the modern Agra in 1558 on the left bank of the river Yamuna. Akbar built the Fort and part of the palace inside it. The famous edifices of Fatehpur Sikri were also his creation. Jahangir his successor, most of the time held his court at Lahore or Kabul. With Shah Jahan begins the greatest epoch of Mughal architecture. Shah Jahan built the masterpiece Taj Mahal besides, many other such magnificent buildings as Jama Masjid and Red Fort at Delhi and the Moti Masjid at Agra.

After Emperor Shah Jahan’s death, Delhi became the seat of government and Agra gradually lost its political and cultural eminence but never the magnificence of its monuments. In 1764 the Jats seized Agra and then the Marathas and the Mughals in turn. In 1803 it came into British possession. During the first unsuccessful uprising and revolt of 1857 Agra did not play any significant part. The present day Agra is like any other leading Indian city, business and tourist center and still retains the grandeur and elegance of its historical monuments.

TAJ MAHAL

Mumtaz Mahal, not unlike her aunt Noor Jahan, was well known both for the personal charms and charity. She was the favourite queen of Shah Jahan. She died in 1630 in childbirth at Burhanpur where she had gone accompanying her husband. Her death left Emperor Shah Jahan completely drenched in utter grief for months together. As promised to her, he began to build a memorial to her that would surpass in its dimensions and grandeur any other such monument the world has ever known. The dead body of Mumtaz Mahal was brought from Burhanpur and laid in the vault where now it rests.

The best architects and craftsmen from India, Persia, Central Asia, Arabia and Italy were engaged to build this magnificent monument to love, the consummation of the Mughal architecture. As many as 20 thousand workmen were employed to construct it, and it took 17 years to complete. The entire team of the master builders was headed by Ustad Isha, a Persian master designer and architect.

It is said that Shah Jahan wanted to erect a mausoleum of black marble opposite to the Taj on the other bank of the river Yamuna, and then to connect the two by a causeway, but it was not to be. He was soon deposed and imprisoned by Aurangzeb. Shah Jahan spent rest of his days in the Fort gazing nostalgically at the final resting place of his most beloved queen and wife.

The red sandstone gateway to the Taj is quite imposing. An Arabic inscription in black marble taken from the Koran decorates the gate. A long watercourse in which the Taj is beautifully mirrored, divides the path into two leading to the Taj. The Taj Mahal stands on a raised marble platform. A flight of steps leads up to the platform on which the Taj, the flame of love arrested in marble stands with its four tall white minarets. The central chamber contains the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and her Lord Shah Jahan, with inscriptions from the Holy Koran. The actual tombs containing the remains of this royal couple are just below in a vault. This vault would be opened only once in a year on the anniversary day. The central chamber is surrounded by eight smaller ones. The light in the chambers is admitted through finely latticed marble screens. The echo in the central chamber under the huge soaring central dome is really a marvel. A sound softly produced is echoed in an endless harmony. The superb inlay work of the Taj involving such precious and semi-precious stones as jade, jasper, crystal, turquoise, lapis lazuli, sapphire, coral, onyx and amethyst, glows in the light filtered into through the finely cut marble screens. The fantastic and fascinating beauty of the Taj defies description.

Viewed from any angle and any distance the Taj ever gives the impression of an eternal flame of love transformed into a jewel of marble, so miraculous, so majestic and so inexpressible. The Taj is never the same all the time. It is one monument in the soft light of dawn, quite another at noon, still another at sunset. In the full moonlight it is totally a different experience. That’s why it is said time and again that the Taj is worth more than a single visit. It is a sheer sensation to be felt and experienced.

A pair of red sandstone mosques on either side of the Taj are decorated with frescoes and fine plasterwork. The one in the east provides a panoramic view of the Taj, the river and the Fort in distance.

THE FORT

The rusty red sandstone fort of Agra was commenced by Emperor Akbar in 1566 on an older one built by Sher Shah Suri’s son Salim Shah. It stands majestically on the banks of the river Yamuna and four successive Mughal emperors helped in its construction and beautification. It is open to visitors from morning to sun set. Its 20 metre high massive walls are 2.5 kilometres around and contain elegant Moti Masjid and the Palaces. A 10 metre moat surrounds the Fort. The entrance to the Fort is only through Amar Singh Gate. The most remarkable thing about this Fort is that it was transformed from a mere military structure into a magnificent palace complex within a very short period of time.

MOTI MASJID

The path to the left of the entrance, leads to the exalted and beautiful Moti Masjid or the Pearl Mosque. Its architectural greatness lies in its perfection of proportions. It was built by Shah Jahan in 1646-1653 at a cost of rupees three lakhs. White and black marble has been used in its construction. Its courtyard measures 154 feet by 158 feet. The abstract symphony of the three domes rising on the seven arches inspire the beholder with admiration and exaltation. Finely chiseled marble screens on either side of the mosque conceal the chambers meant for the use of royal ladies. A Persian panegyric inscription over one of the arches comparing it with a pearl attributes its authorship to Shah Jahan.

DIWAN-I-AM

Diwan-I-Am or the Hall of Public Audience, an open pavilion was commenced by Shah Jahan but was not completed until the advent of Aurangzeb. The surrounding arcades are of Akbar’s time. This colonnaded hall 192 feet by 64 feet, is of red sandstone, with a throne alcove of inlaid marble at the back whish is connected with the royal palaces. Here the emperor sat and listened to public petitions and met the officials. At the foot of the alcove is a square marble slab on which stood the ministers to receive orders. Just in front is Jahangi’r Hauz or cistern built in 1611. Beside this Hall is Mina Bazaar where merchants used to sell silks, jewellery, brocades and other costly items to the royal ladies.

DIWAN-I-KHAS

The Hall of Private Audience was built in 1637 by Shah Jahan. Its marble pavilions are very attractive in their inlaid flower work and details. Here the emperor would sit on his throne and receive important persons and foreign ambassadors. The famous Peacock throne was kept here on the terrace before it was moved to Delhi by Aurangzeb.

MUSAMMAN BURJ

Near the Hall of Private Audience stands the tall octagonal tower or the Musamman Burj. Perhaps it was built by Jahangir for his wife Nurjahan and was afterwards used by Mumtaz Mahal, the lady of the Taj. It was here that Shah Jahan was kept captive by Aurangzeb. It was here again that Shah Jahan died attended by his faithful daughter Jahanara after seven years long imprisonment and was buried in the Taj beside his beloved wife. Nearby is the white marble Nagina or Gem Mosque, a mosque built by Shah Jahan for the use of royal ladies. It has three beautiful marble domes and a marble courtyard for prayers.

KHAS MAHAL

This elegant marble structure formed the private apartments of the emperors. It was built in 1636 by Shah Jahan. Once its walls were inlaid with flowers of precious stones, but these were looted and plundered like so many other things in the 18^th century. A staircase to the south of this palace leads to the underground quarters where the emperor and the royal ladies retired to escape the stifling summer heat of Agra.

SHISH MAHAL

On the north-east side of the Khas Mahal stands the Shish Mahal or the Palace of Mirrors. This zanana bath and dressing room was built in 1637 and once its walls and ceilings were inlaid with dazzling small mirrors.

Anguri Bagh: In front of the Khas Mahal is the Anguri Bagh surrounded by arcades on the three sides. The Anguri Bagh or the Grape Garden takes its name after the grape vines which it once had.

JAHANGIR’S PALACE

This is the biggest private residence inside the fort, and was built by Akbar for his son Jahangir. This palace called after Jahangir, is a remarkable building which clearly reflects the Fort’s transition from purely military structure into the elegant and luxurious edifice. The same hands constructed Fatehpur Sikri must have built this palace. Its courtyards surrounded by pavilions, have attractive frescoes and gilded decorations though now faded to a great extent. Even in their present dilapidated condition they speak of their past glory and richness of ornamentations.

One side of this set of palaces is Jodha Bai’s apartments. Jodha Bai, the mother of Jahangir, was a Hindu princess from Jaipur. One of these chambers is called the liabrary, once famous for its ornamental paintings. Jahangir’s Mahal, reflecting the robust and virile architectural style of Akbar’s time marked the beginning of a series of magnificent Mughal monuments in Agra.

JAMA MASJID

Opposite the Delhi Gate of the Fort, stands Jama Masjid, built in 1644 by Shah Jahan at a cost of five lakhs of rupees. An inscription over the main gateway says that it was built in the name of Jahanara, the eldest daughter of Shah Jahan. It is in the same style as the Jama Masjid of Delhi butfar less impressive in design and execution.

ITMAD-UD-DAULAH’S TOMB

This impressive tomb was built by Nur Jahan, the favourite queen of Jahangir between 1622 and 1628 in the memory of his father Mirza Ghias-ud-Din Beg. Nurjahan’s mother is also buried here in the central chamber. This elegent marble structure was the forerunner of the Taj Mahal. The four towers at the corners, the familiar Persian motifs of inlaid floral patterns, etc., clearly foreshadow the famous Taj. It is similar in style and design to the one built near Lahore for Jahangir by Nurjahan. Beautifully situated on the banks of river Yamuna it is perhaps the first example of pietradura technique in India.

AKBAR’S MAUSOLEUM

At Sikandra, built by Akbar himself, and completed by Jahangir in 1613, stands Akbar’s Mausoleum. It is characterized by a fusion of Hindu and Muslim art and architecture. Sikandra takes its name after Sultan Sikander Lodi defeated by Babar in 1526 in the battle of Panipat. The tomb stands amidst huge gardens, enclosed by four high battle-mented walls. The main entrance, an imposing red sandstone gateway, has a Persian inscription, which says it was completed by Jahangir in 1613. The three storied minarates at the four corners is an example of the beginning of inlay work in stone. It marks the beginning and evolution of the Mughal architectural design whish reached its perfection in the Taj.

CHINI-KA-RAUZA

A kilometer north of the Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb. On the same side of the river stands the ‘China Tomb’ the mausoleum of Afzal Khan, who died in Lahore in 1639. He entered the court of Jahangir and later became the Prime Minister of Shah Jahan. Now in much neglect and dilapidated state, the tomb still has enough to tell about its past glory of brightly coloured exquisite enameled tiles.

RAM BAGH

Ram Bagh, a little beyond the China Tomb, is an earliest example of the Mughal garden. It was laid out by Babar in 1526. The old Mughal splendour is no more there but the terraces with water channels and fountains still provide this pleasure resort a touch of glory that once it had been. Its present name Ram Bagh has been there since the Maratha conquest in the 18th century.

FATEHPUR SIKRI

Forty kilomatres south-west from Agra, on the ridge of a hill lies Fatehpur Sikri, the deserted city of red sandstone. Here once lived Seikh Salim Chishti, a mystic saint. When Emperor Akbar came to know about him, he set out on a pilgrimage to beg the saint an heir. When Akbar was blessed with a son, he not only named his son Salim after the saint, but also shifted his capital to Sikri in 1569, but then Akbar was forced to shift back to Agra as quikly as the new capital complex was built. Now, it is a ghost and deserted city haunted by the memories of a golden past.

RADHASWAMI TEMPLE

This stupendous structure at Dayal Bagh has been under construction for the last 70 years and may take another 40 or 50 years to complete. This enormous holy monument of marble with exquisite inlay and relief work is a great tourists attraction. Here one can also see for himself how such huge and artistic monuments are raised, embellished and a thing of beauty is created out of stones. The samadhi contains the holy relics of Swamiji Maharaj, the founder of the Radhaswami sect.

JAMA MASJID

The imperial complex of Fatehpur Sikri took about 6-7 years to complete. The Jama Masjid, the Cathedral Mosque is the largest structure built in 1575. It is one of the most impressive structures. Its Buland Darwaza or the Victory Gateway, 134 feet high, looms large over the whole complex. It can be reached by a flight of steps. It was built by Akbar after his conquest of Gujarat. The mosque itself was built to honour the holy man Seikh Slim Chishti. Here lie the remains of the saint under a shrine of marble and a canopy inlaid with mother of pearl. Barren women make a pilgrimage to the shrine asking the saint a boon of a child. Closeby is another tomb, which contains the remains of Seikh’s grandson Nawab Islam Khan, Governor of Bengal during Jahangir’s reign. The mosque proper crowned with three domes and decorated with marble lattice work, is remarkable impressive. The mosque is said to be a replica of the holy mosque at Mecca. The fusion of Hindu and Persian architectural elements are best shown here.

DIWAN-I-AM

Diwan-I-Am and Diwan-I-Khas are two other intresting buildings. The Hall of Public Audience or Diwan-I-Am consista of a large open courtyard surrounded by cloisters. Here sat Akbar on his throne flanked by marble screens. Nearby is Pachisi Board. It is here that Akbar played chess with slave girls as living pieces.

DIWAN-I-KHAS

The Hall of Private Audience, a square bulding is unique in its design and costruction. It looks like a two storied building but in reality, it is a single vaulted chamber. Here Akbar would receive his ambassadors, nobles and other dignitaries.

PANCH MAHAL

Opposite the Diwan-I-Am lies the ‘Five Storied Palace’, a curious structure used by Akbar and his ladies. Originally each storey was enclosed by stone screens which have now been removed. The groung floor has 56 columns and the stone screens between the columns divide it into cubicles. The designs of the columns is so varied that no two are exactly alike.

MIRIAM’S HOUSE

This two-storied elegant house was used by one of Akbar’s Persian wives. The house was originally gilded and covered with frescoes and so was also called the ‘Golden House’. The Persian style frescoes illustrated Firdausi’s great work, Shahnama, the history of Persian Kings.

JODHA BAI’S PALACE

This spacious palace, perhaps the oldest structure, was the residence of Jahangir’s mother, a Hindu princess from Rajputana. Here again we see the fusion of Hindu and Persian styles. Most of the details are of Hindu origin. The palace has a projecting pavilion called the Hawa Mahal, enclosed by finely cut stone screens, where royal ladies could enjoy the cool breeze and see the happenings below without being seen. It was formerly connected with Akbar’s private apartments by a covered passage. 

BIRBAL’S HOUSE

Raja Birbal was Akbar’s one of the most close advisers and ministers. This palace named after Birbal, is an elegant two storied ornamented building. Though smaller in size, it is of the same style as that of Akbar’s palace in Agra Fort. In the opinion of some experts, it was evidently intended for someone of the highest rank in the imperial zanana, and was never used by Birbal.

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